All you need to know about watch batteries

The only battery made by a watch
manufacturer specifically for watches

In response to questions as to why our batteries are more expensive than in other Jersey jewellery shops, the answer is simply that we are not, we are by far the most cost effective.

Prices in Jersey for watch batteries vary from between £1.50 (us for Alkaline batteries) and £50 (Ernest Jones) but it is important that you understand what you are paying for.

The next cheapest is TJ Hutchings who will supply alkaline batteries for £2.00.

We are the sole stockists of Seiko watch batteries and with a fitted charge of just £4.50 or £2.00 for the battery we invite you to compare our prices on any internet site.

We also will supply inferior batteries at prices which are lower than other jewellers in Jersey, the standard silver oxide battery we will fit for £3.00 or if you really want an alkaline battery then these are fitted for just £1.50 but they will damage your watch.

The Seiko Battery

Seiko's Micro-Energy Division has commercialized a highly reliable silver oxide battery in response to quartz watches. Since then the company has expanded its micro-battery business. With rapid progress in LSI technologies, highly advanced micro-batteries are now being strongly demanded for sophisticated electronic instruments and equipment. The company continues its best efforts to develop high performance micro-batteries which meet any users' needs and requirements. 

The unique feature of these batteries is that they are guaranteed not to leak due to the double walled design, similar to that of an ocean going ship so even if one wall fails, there is another to protect the workings of your watch.

Silver Oxide Battery

Silver oxide batteries are noted for their high energy density and ability to put out high current for their size. But they are extremely expensive because of the cost of the silver. To produce them in large sizes is not cost effective, except for some military applications. But for miniature devices where space is severely limited, like watches, hearing aids, calculators and some photographic equipment, they are ideal and will last much longer than their 'cheaper' counterparts. A silver oxide battery should never be placed in a charger.

Alkaline Battery

Alkaline batteries are the most common choice where economy is important. They have a tendency to leak, making them less attractive than silver oxide because they can cause corrosion and damage equipment. Alkaline batteries may come in rechargeable versions.

Additional Services

Once your watch battery has been changed then the watch is no longer water resistant, the watch will need to be tested and if necessary the seals will need to be replaced in order to retain its water resistance. This service is not included in the prices quoted above and you will need to request this service if it is required.

Town Talk Jewellery Cleaners

FIND Town Talk Jewellery Cleaners on AMAZON

For over a hundred years now Town Talk of Bolton have been creating high quality polishes and cleaners that bring a radiant sparkle to precious metals, rare stones and fine jewellery.

More recently, they have introduced a splendid range of delicately fragranced household cleaning products that put dirt in its place and make everyday chores more fun!

Each and every one has been formulated to have a minimal impact on the environment. None of them have been tested on animals.

They are proud to be a truly English company, producing our exclusive products from our traditional base in North West England, where they are continually investing for the future.

They believe their customers are people of taste who appreciate superior quality, fine style and exceptional service; people who care for their treasured possessions – as thay do – in an environmentally conscious way.

Product History

Well over a hundred years ago – in the early 1890s when life was lived at a more leisurely pace – a certain Mr Pexton, an enterprising English gentleman from Lancashire, developed a number of ingenious ways of cleaning and polishing Victorian silver and silverware.

Blessed with an endless supply of pure, soft Pennine water and an abundance of cleverly woven material from the local cotton mills, this quick-witted fellow was able to perfect one particular item – an impregnated silver polishing cloth – that employed a novel combination of an already successful silver polishing liquid and the high quality cotton material so readily to hand.

Such were the benefits of Mr Pexton’s ingenious product, it brought amazement and delight to the many people who used it. Indeed, such a treat were its ease of use and a wonder its anti-tarnish qualities, it very quickly became the ‘talk of the town’.

It was thus no surprise that, in 1895, a manufacturing company was founded which – to this very day – trades as ‘The Town Talk Polish Company’.

As the Victorian era passed, the company flourished and, with the coming of a more light-hearted and glamorous age, the artist Austin Knight was commissioned to develop a symbol for the growing business.

Drawing on the annals of history and the elegant style of the day, this accomplished fellow developed the animated image we now know as Mr Town Talk, the Polished Gentleman.

Today, many years later and in his own inimitable way, this knowledgeable and practical fellow continues to epitomise our lasting commitment to the utmost in quality and service and all accomplished with polished flair.

Grading Guide

Near Mint (NM):  There may be a few light stress lines on the spine, but otherwise the spine is strong and intact.  Corners are sharp, but can have a little bit of “bumping” or other very minor wear.  In general, no creases should be present, though a slight “bend” that does not create a noticeable stress crease may be allowed.  The edges may have a few very tiny “bumps” or “nicks”.  A few light stress lines are acceptable on the surface, but they should NOT break the color.  Surface colors should be bright with at most a few “color flecks” or some very minimal “color fading” (as usually occurs along the spine).  Any spots of discoloration or staining would be extremely minor (no more than a few pencil-tip sized dots).  In addition, the inside booklet should be complete with no marks, no rust on the staples and all inserts/maps still attached.  At most, a few very light marks may be allowed – such as a pencil note next to a creature’s stats or (possibly) and small price written in pencil on the inside flyleaf (as from a used book store).  Even though, the above flaws are acceptable in Near Mint condition, an item should not contain any more than a few such defects. An accumulation of several of the above will likely drop the item down another grade

Very Fine (VF):  A few light creases may be present at an edge/corner or on the inner surface of the cover (such as when a “thumb” presses down on a module cover and creates semi-circular stress lines).  There should be no folds or hard creases.  Corners can have other wear such as slight “rounding” or “abrasion”.  On modules or staple-bound items, the edge of the spine may have some slight abrasions to the outer surface layer, though the spine itself it still strong and intact (this is a sometimes common occurrence from the cover being opened repeatedly).  For perfect-bound accessories, light vertical stress lines are more prominent (though not extensive).  Staples may have the slightest hint of rust, but should still be at least 90% rust free with no rust stains on the pages.  Maps / inserts may be detached -- there can be a few marks written on the these, but they should still be minor and not extensive (no highlighting or marker).  Again, judgment must be used as each item is unique.  Perhaps two corners may have tiny 1/16” creases at the extreme tips or there could be one very light ½” crease

Fine (FN):  Many “high grade” items are actually in Fine condition.  At first glance, a Fine item may appear to be a higher grade, but on closer inspection flaws can be clearly seen.  There may be several smalls creases or even one slightly larger (1” or 2cm) crease.  The top/bottom of the spine may show some abrasion, perhaps even a small 1/8” (3mm) tear.  Other possible flaws include: several heavier spine stress lines (either vertical or horizontal), a “scuff” to the surface that removes some of the color, rust to the staples (though at least 75% should be rust free), a tiny tear or very small piece missing from a corner (no more than 1/16” or 1 ½ mm), or a few small stains.  Though inserts / maps may be detached and have some minor writing, they should still be intact (i.e. character sheets should not be “cut out”).  Often, Fine items simply have an greater accumulation of lesser flaws

Very Good (VG):  The “average wear” grade.  Spines show stress and may be slightly frayed or have minor tears.  Module covers can have “splits” as long as 2” (5cm).  Corners are often rounded, creased, or frayed, and edges may show similar wear.  Other common flaws are “color fading”, small stains, small tears, and writing on interior pages (perhaps even some highlighting).  A slight warping and/or faint “musty odor” (usually from storage in a basement) may also be allowed.  Tape may have been used to “repair” the item, but it should be (at most) one or two small pieces.  A Very Good item can simply be an accumulation of several minor and moderate flaws or it may have very few minor flaws and one major detractor (such as a fold that goes the entire length of the cover, heavy rust on the staples, a page separated that was not designed to be “detachable”, a large spine split, or writing on the outer cover

Good (GD):  Shows heavy wear, but is still solid.  A few large flaws plus several smaller flaws may be present.   Conversely, Good items may have one or two major flaws: spine splits up to half the length (typical of modules), several large and heavy creases, a small amount of water damage, heavy writing, multiple or large tears, a noticeable odor due to either “mustiness” or “smoke”, significant staple rust & staining, etc.  There may be several pieces of tape on the item.  On staple-bound books, the cover can be separated from the staples (staple pulls), and on perfect-bound books, some pages may be loose from the binding.  A Good item should be relatively solid and intact and still retain some basic appeal to a collector.

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